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The Vanua tasting counter at night: black stone, candle flames, the wood fire burning behind

01 · The tasting room

Nine courses.
One fire.

Twenty seats
Thursday to Saturday
Suva, Fiji

scroll · dinner as theatre

02 · The idea

A twenty-seat room on the edge of Suva harbour, built around a single wood fire. No gas line enters the building.

Est. MMXXIVWood Kadavu vesi, onlyMenu turns with the reef and the rain
Course three: whole reef fish, wood-fired, dark cane glaze on black ceramic
Reef fish, wholecourse 03 · the fire

03 · Tonight

The procession

01Kokoda, undoneRaw wahoo, coconut cream charred in its shell, lime ash.
02The first fireFlatbread blistered over coals, smoked roe butter.
03Reef fish, wholeWood-fired, dark cane glaze, pickled shallot.
04Taro, three waysCrisped in tallow, whipped with kava honey, burnt.
05Duck and breadfruitAged over the hearth, bitter greens, its own fat.
06Wild honey, black iceFrozen over smoke, sea salt pulled at Navua.

...and three the fire decides on the night.

Nine courses · $190 per seatwine procession +$110

Reserve a table

04 · The fire

Everything passes through the flame.

Mataiasi Rokovuni cooks the way his grandmother did on Kadavu: wood, salt and patience. The hearth is lit at noon and read all evening like weather. Even the water for the kava is warmed over it. Even the ice for the last course is smoked above it before it freezes.

“The fire is the only clock in the room.”

A flamed citrus peel finishing a dark rum cocktail at the bar
The pouraged rum · flame
The chef working the open vesi-wood hearth, sparks rising
The hearthlit at noon
iThe hearth is lit at noon, read all evening
iiKadavu vesi wood, nothing else
iiiNo gas line enters the building
ivNothing meets a flame under four hours old
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